A lighthouse sailing adventure aboard Windjammer Angelique
I was lucky enough to recently sail on the Angelique for a three-night cruise. Normally my work with the association keeps me confined to the office so I always jump at the chance to get out on to one of the windjammers. The weather forecast was cloudy, but as we prepared to set sail, the mood on board was anything but gloomy. The crew’s enthusiasm and humor was infectious (keep reading for a sample of the first mate’s nautical jokes), and the other passengers, like me, seemed eager to embark on this journey to whatever islands Captain Dennis chose. Many of the guests were first-time sailors although there were a few returning guests as well. In fact, my new friend Pam had been sailing almost every year since 2000!
Our voyage began with a gentle breeze pushing us away from Camden Harbor. Captain Dennis wanted to be sure that we got in a good day of sailing and would see as many lighthouses as we could.
The first lighthouses we encountered were charming Curtis Island Lighthouse, nestled on a small island at the entrance to Camden harbor and Indian Island Light at the entrance to Rockport harbor. Both of these lighthouses make for postcard-perfect scenes. Whenever I see them, or any lighthouse, I can feel the joy the many a sailor must’ve had when first spying them after a long journey at sea.
Next, we sailed past the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse, a long granite pier leading out to the iconic structure. We also could see a schooner coming out from Rockland – can you tell which one this is?
We continued our journey, passing Owls Head Lighthouse which stands high on a cliff offering a commanding view of Penobscot Bay and had a fun little mini-cannon battle with the Schooner Stephen Taber who was also heading out on a windjammer cruise.
As we sailed across Penobscot Bay, Browns Head Lighthouse came into view, and then Goose Rocks Lighthouse. Each of these lighthouses marks one end of the Fox island Thoroughfare – one of my favorite places to sail. The thoroughfare is filled with beautiful houses on each side, North Haven Village, great bird and seal viewing and calm breezes.
Heading up Penobscot Bay, we passed Eagle Island Lighthouse, with its remote location and rugged charm. Our final lighthouse of the day was Pumpkin Island Lighthouse, a small but picturesque structure that seemed to welcome us into Bucks Harbor. As the sun began to set, we anchored for the night in this peaceful harbor. Some of the more adventurous passengers decided to take a swim off the boat, braving the cool waters with laughter and cheers. After dinner Captain Dennis played a few songs for us on his guitar and I chatted with a few guests who had brought water color paints along and were painting a few scenes from the day.
The next morning, I awoke to the sound of…well, not much. It’s so pleasantly quiet in the mornings. I grabbed a cup of coffee and a muffin and spent some time sitting on deck watching the boat and harbor wake up. After breakfast, the crew raised the anchor and we headed over to Pond Island, a beautiful small undeveloped island for a lunch time lobster bake. Rowing ashore (always a unique experience) First-mate Dylan regaled us with some catchy maritime jokes:
Hey, did you know that all the navy boats in Sweden have bar codes on them?
It’s so they can Scan-da-navy in!
While the crew cooked the lobsters on the beach, a group of us meandered along the beach chatting, searching for beach treasures and skipping stones along the way. Later, as we feasted on lobster, charcuterie, corn, chips and salad, I couldn’t help but feel a deep connection to the place and the people around me. There was something magical about sharing a meal outdoors, surrounded by nature and the sound of the waves gently lapping the shore.
After the lobster bake, we set sail once again, this time heading towards Pulpit Harbor, North Haven. The wind had picked up, and the Angelique cut through the water with ease. I took advantage of this time to hang out on the bowsprit – something the captain might let you do if the conditions are right.
It was still overcast, but it didn’t seem to bother anyone as we were all enchanted by the experience of sailing down the bay. Sailing into Pulpit Harbor feels like entering a hidden Camelot, a serene cove protected from the bay by a grandiose rock adorned with a towering osprey nest that has been there for hundreds of years. No wonder it’s been a sailor’s favorite for centuries.
The final morning of our journey arrived all too soon. The sky was sunnier and the wind was steady, promising a good sail back to Camden. We all tried to bribe Dennis to extend the trip but alas, he couldn’t be bought. We sailed back, each grateful for our few days on board and probably not quite ready to hit the pavement again.
Categories: Cruises, Lighthouses, Maine Windjammers
